Upper Mustang is located in Nepal’s Mustang District. It was a restricted kingdom until 1992, the
kingdom of Lo. Hence, called the “Forbidden Kingdom”. Lo Manthang was the capital of the
kingdom. The Kingdom dates back to the 14th century when the mustang was an important salt
trade route between Tibet’s saline lakes and India. The Mustang Kingdom statues ended in
2008 when Nepal transitioned from a kingdom to a republic country.
The trek begins at the Jomsom village, but to reach there one must travel from Kathmandu to
Pokhara, by bus it takes 6-7 hours and 30 minutes by air. If travelled by bus, the route is scenic
with Trishuli and Marsyangdi rivers, lush rocky mountains and from the Pokhara valley one can
see Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, and Lamjung Himal.
Jomsom is a 25 minute flight away from Pokhara. The Jomsom airport is surrounded by peaks
coated in snow. Kagbeni is a lovely walk from Jomsom, where one can see the fort of Kagbeni,
a Buddhist monastery and dry Kali Gandaki river valley.
To reach Chele one must start early in the morning, since the Mustang wind in the afternoon is
strong. From the Kagbeni checkpoint the route is to travel along the east bank of Kali Gandaki
river. Kagbeni is located in the valley of the Kali Gandaki river. The river is vast and has flowers
in between Kagbeni and Mt. Nilgiri. Higher we go, we get to see glaciers in the river. The river is
meandering and flows through Kagbeni. Early morning when the trek begins Mt. Nilgiri shines in
orange.
As one continues to trek we begin to see the red sandstone pillars and rock formation of
Mustang, arriving at Tangbe village. The village is charming with red and white homes and apple
orchards which are organic.
Ascending from Chele to Syangboche can be quite difficult because the route is through a quite
steep canyon to make a stop at Eklo Bhatti and continue to reach Taklam La. As we ascend we
can view Tilicho Peak, Damodar Danda, and Yaskawa Kang to reach Samar village. Samar
village has a stunning view of Mt. Nilgiri. The village is surrounded by rocky mountains. Horse
and mule caravans frequently halt here to relax.
From Samar village, the path is through the raunching Chungsi cave, which offers unique views
to the trail. The Chungsi cave is a pilgrimage to both Hindus and Buddhists. It is believed that
Lord Shiva has meditated here on his journey to Kailash. The cave is accessible by foot or by
horseback, and the journey through the rugged terrain is an adventure in itself. Few more hours
of trekking and Syangboche is reached and wise to rest for the night
The Upper Mustang trek continues with the climb to Yamada La Pass, passing over regions of
desert environments. The Kali Gandaki canyon and beautiful mountain vistas are both visible
from this steep ascent. Close to the Nyi la is a stunning view point to see the mustang and
Himalayan peaks of Annapurna, Dhaulagiri and many others.
Barley and buckwheat field looks like heaven in the middle of a dry and cold desert. The trek
takes you through the rugged terrain of the Himalayas, along the Kali Gandaki River, and
through several remote villages that have preserved their ancient traditions and lifestyle.
There are many sky caves in the nearby cliffs of Ghami village. One can explore these in their
leisure. The valley embraces primeval Tibetan Buddhism tradition and culture that is worthy of
exploration. The stunning vistas of great peaks intensify the scenic delight of upper mustang
trek.
The trek from Ghami to Tsarang is accompanied by probably the longest Mani stone. Mani
stones are stone plates stacked one upon other to form a wall. These stones or rocks are
inscribed with mantras professing Buddhist teachings.
After crossing the steel bridge at Ghami Khola, a steep uphill walk towards Choya la is the most
difficult part of Ghami to Tsarang trail. Ghami to Tsarang hiking passes through fairly rough
terrain, a perfect view point of an isolated area of trans Himalayan valley.
After traveling through a variety of landscapes and crossing a lovely river, the breathtaking
Tsarang La Pass will be reached, post which is the Tsarang village. The village offers a
picturesque alpine community, rocky Mountains, sparsely populated areas, and snow-capped
mountains in all directions.There is a medieval fort and a crimson Gompa with an amazing
collection of sculptures that are located east of the hamlet and monasteries related to the Gelup sect of Buddhism.
Most of the walking trail to Lo Manthang is flat; wide and gradually up. Tsarang to Lo Manthang
distance offers the perfect blend of remoteness, adventure, natural beauty, and cultural
lushness.
The trek then descends to the valley through a favorably rough trail crossing a suspension
bridge over the Ghami river. These remote treks will provide amazing views of Dhaulagiri,
Annapurna, and other prominent Himalayan peaks. As one goes to Lo Manthang passes
through the lovely Sungda Chorten and the Lo pass. Lo Pass has magnificent views of the
Nilgiri, Annapurna I, Bhrikuti, and Tilicho peaks. Lo Manthang is surrounded by red cliffs and
such is the terrain of the region.
Lo-Manthang served as the main commercial junction for garments and salt between Nepal and Tibet. A noticeable and alluring aspect of this lovely village is the 6-meter wall. Throughout Lo-Manthang, one will see stunning towers in this walled city.
Among the most important monuments are the Thubchen Monastery, the museum, the Jampa Monastery, and locations for Thangka paintings. The government of Nepal opened the
Lo-Manthang region for visitors in 1992. Although this township is now open for visitors, just
1000 travelers are allowed to visit this lovely location yearly.
The Upper Mustang trek is relatively new compared to the other Himalayan trek, since the
region opened up to tourists in 1992. The land is rich in Tibetan Buddhist culture and associates
itself more with Tibet than Nepal culturally. The trek lasts for 10-12 days with moderate difficulty.
Throughout the trek trekkers will be marvelled by Kali Gandaki river, multi coloured canyons,
wind-blasted passes with many monasteries. The trek is certainly worthy of a bucket list item.
Read More : Langtang Valley’s Untouched Wilderness
